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2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

E. H. REEVES. PATTERN CHARTS Fon CUTTING GARMENTS.

No. 195,308. Patented sep^.1a,1a77.

N, PETERS. PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON. D C.

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E. H. REEVES. PATTERN CIT-ARTS Fon CUTTING GARMENTS. N.195,30a, Patented sept.1e,1e77.

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speci-naaien raggiunse-...Qt Lea-'ers Patent No. 195.13035,I dated september 1e, ism application aledv :f 'August 18., 1877."

To all whom it ma/y concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD H. REEVES, of West Farmington, in the county of Franklin and State of Maine, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Pattern Charts for Cutting Garments; and I do hereby declare that the following is a clear, full, and exact description thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 is the main or body chart, having scales of figures which correspond with the measures taken, and arranged at suitable distances and on proper angles. Fig. 2 is a chart, having a combination of guides, consisting of neck, shoulder, under-arm, front and back waist-line guide. Fig. 3 is a back and front arm sizeguide. Fig. 4 is a backform, side-body, and dart guide@ The object of my invention is to furnish a series of charts and guides by means of which, it is believed, ladies, misses, and childrens garments can be cut with less trouble and more accurately than by any chart now in use.

To draft a waist, first take the measures, viz: size of bust and waist, and length of back. To take the bust-measure, pass the tape around the person at the fullest part, bringing close up to arm-pits and between the lower part of shoulder-blades, drawing comfortably close, not tight. Take the waistmeasure at the smallest part, drawing tape tight. Take the length of back, from as high up as the garment needs to be, down to the natural waist. Draft back rst, invariably.

Suppose the person to measure 36 bust, 25 waist, and 15 back; draw a line far enough from edge of goods to allow for spring at bottom; place the edge of chart, Fig. 1, with A parallel with line, dotin perforation 36B for top of neck and upper end of shoulder, at 36C for lower end of shoulder, at 36D for arm-size. Take guide, Fig. 2, place it so that E will come close to dot made at 36B, and curved edge at dot made at 360; line out for shoulder; allow three-fourths of an inch outside for seam. Take arm-size guide, Fig. 3, place 36F close to dot made at 36D, with edge close to dot made at 3G; line to G, which forms back arm size. Take guide, Fig. 2,

place 15H by'dot made at 36B, Fig. 1, with long straight edge of guide parallel with backline; line across from l to J26 for back waistline; place K at end of arm-size, and line down to end of waist-line for under arm seam; allow one inch outside for seam. Take guide, Fig. 4., placeL about midway of shoulder, and lower edge one and a half inch from backline on waist-line; line down to waist-line for back-form; allow one-half inch each side of line for seam.

To draft the front, draw a line one and a half inch from edge of goods for lap and hem line; place the edge of chart, Fig. l, with M parallel with lap-line; dot at N for lower part of neck; dot at 360 for upper part of neck and upper end of shoulder; dot at 361) for lower end of shoulder; at 36Q for arm-size. Take guide, Fig. 2, place F by dot made at N, Fig. 1, with circle-edge by dot made at 360 line around for neck; place E by dot made at 360, with edge close to dot made at 3GP; line out for shoulder; allow three-fourths of an inch outside for seam. Take arm-size guide, Fig. 3, place 36B by dot made at 36Q, with edge at lower end of shoulderseam; line around to 36S for arm-size; dot as far below the end of front arm size as the back underarm seam is long; place guide, Fig. 2, with short straight edge parallel with lap-line, and long straight edge by dot last made. Now drop the end I one inch at lap-line, line by the long straight edge for front waist-line; dot two inches from lap-line on waistline for edge of rst dart; dot six inches above waist-line near lapline; again, from waist-line, directly under arm-size; line by these dots. Thisline is to control the tops of darts. Dot on this line three and one-half inches from lap-line f'or top of first dart; again at six and one-half inches from lap-linefor top of second dart. Take guide, Fig. 4, place T at dot made for rst dart, with edge at dot on waist-line; line down to waistline then turn the guide directly over, allow two inches for width of dart; line down to waist line, which forms upper part of first dart; proceed in same manner for second dart, allowing one inch between darts, and two and one-fourth inches for width of second dart; dot three inches beyond second dart on waist-line draw a V -shaped dart by the straight edge of guide,

Fig. 2, beginning where the arm-size turns out, lining by the dot on waist-line; make the dart one and a half inch wide at top and threefourths of an inch wide on waist-line. The one and a halfl inch allowed for top of V-shaped dart must be added onto arm-size. Measure the space the darts take up, (which is five inches,) dot five inches from lap-line on waistline; place the guide, Fig. 2, with I at dot just made, and long straight edge parallel with waist-line; line out to 25U for entire length of front waist-line; place K at end of arm-size, and line to end of waist-line for underarm seam allow one inch outside for seam.

By means of this improvement I am enabled to obtain the exact measure of back and front under-arm seam and length of front from neck to waist without having tomasnre the person with tape-line or any other rule or scale of inches heretofore used in connection with pattern-charts.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patentfis- The series of pattern-charts and guides, Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4, havingthe configuration and provided with the numbers, letters, and lines, substantially as described and shown, for the purpose specified. 4

EDWARD H. REEVES.

Witnesses:

M. GARDNER., F. B. GBOFF. 

